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View compareMany shrubs and roses can be planted between 2 and 5 feet apart, depending on the variety width at maturity.
Hard or Clay Soil: Add coarse sand and organic matter to the soil that you will be putting back in the hole. This will lessen the compaction of the dirt around the root system after planting.
Loose or Sandy Soil: Add topsoil and organic matter to help build the quality of the soil, providing nutrients and density.
Hole Preparation: Dig holes 8 to 14 inches wide and 12 to 14 inches deep. Ensure the hole is no less than 3 to 4 inches deeper and 4 to 5 inches wider than the root system. Pour about 2 inches of water into the hole and allow it to soak.
Removing Wrap: While the water is soaking in, remove the plastic wrap and shredded newspaper from the roots. Place the wrap and paper aside.
Planting: Hold the plant steady just above the root collar (the lighter line above the root system where the soil came to on its original planting) just above ground level. Pull soil back into the hole with the other hand, pressing the soil down lightly. Fill the hole around the root system with your soil mixture and firmly press soil around the base of the plant.
Watering: Water the soil about the same amount as it took to fill 2 inches of the hole. The soil around the base of the plant may sink in, so apply more soil and lightly press down again.
Mulching: Apply about 3 inches of mulch, creating a doughnut shape around the base of the plant. The mulch should be approximately a couple of inches away from the trunk, forming a well where you will direct your watering focus. Mound the mulch out roughly 6 to 12 inches away from the plant.
Watering Schedule: For the first 4 to 6 weeks, water the plant every 2 to 3 days, adjusting for deep rainfall days. Gradually phase into watering less frequently, allowing the plant to slightly stress for the roots to stretch and find moisture.
Maintenance: Clip broken or damaged tips and branches that may have occurred during transit or while waiting for planting.
Hole Preparation: Dig holes 2 to 4 inches wider and 3 to 5 inches deeper than the container. Pour about 2 inches of water into the hole and allow it to soak.
Removing from Container: Firmly loosen the soil from the pot and, cupping the plant base and top of the container with one hand, tip the container completely over and gently pry the plant's root system out of the pot.
Root Preparation: Hold the base of the plant and comb through the roots and dirt to loosen and spread apart the roots. Straighten any roots that have wrapped around the inside of the pot.
Planting: Hold the plant steady at the base of the trunk, slightly above ground level. Begin pulling the soil back into the hole with the other hand. Fill the hole around the roots and container soil with your soil mixture and lightly press soil around the base of the plant.
Watering: Water the soil about the same amount as it took to fill 2 inches of the hole. The soil around the base of the plant may sink in, so apply more soil and lightly press down again.
Mulching: Apply about 3 inches of mulch, creating a doughnut shape around the base of the plant. The mulch should be approximately a couple of inches away from the trunk, forming a well where you will direct your watering focus. Mound the mulch out roughly 6 to 12 inches away from the plant.
Watering Schedule: For the first 4 to 6 weeks, water the plant every 2 to 3 days, adjusting for deep rainfall days. Gradually phase into watering less frequently, allowing the plant to slightly stress for the roots to stretch and find moisture.
Maintenance: Clip broken or damaged tips and branches that may have occurred during transit or while waiting for planting.
First Year: Adding organic matter into the soil when planting and using organic mulch in spring and fall often eliminates the need for additional fertilizer.
Second Year: Wait for the plants to begin leafing out before starting a fertilizer program. Use a timed-release formula for periodic nutrient release.
Tips: Follow the directions on the fertilizer package. Avoid overusing water-soluble and liquid fertilizers to prevent saline buildup in the soil, which can harm plants and future growth.
Sunlight: Can be planted in full/partial sun with 4 to 8-foot spacing. They generally look best in groupings of 3 to 5 plants.
Soil: Prefer alkaline soil (pH 6.5 to 7.0).
Fertilizing: Fertilize in spring/summer with a slow-release fertilizer.
Maintenance: Deadheading will keep the plants blooming longer. Cut back in winter and prune as they age.
Pest Control: Check for spider mites by tapping branches over white paper. If infected, spray with miticide monthly.
Blooming: Begins around mid-summer and continues until frost.
Sunlight: Prefers full to mostly sunny areas, although it can grow in partial shade.
Pruning: Prune dead branches and shape the plants in late winter to early spring.
Mulching: Apply a 2 to 3-inch thick layer of mulch around each plant.
Fertilizing: Use a timed-release fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, as soon as new growth appears.
Sunlight: Plant in full to partial sun.
Soil: Cold hardy, tolerates poor soils, including sandy soil.
Pruning: Prune in late winter/early spring to maintain neatness.
Fertilizing: Prefer organic matter over chemical products.
Watering: Let the soil dry out a few days between watering.
Disease Resistance: Resistant to black spot and other common diseases.
Sunlight: Thrive in full sun but can perform well with as little as 4 hours of sun per day.
Soil: Plant in well-drained, aerated soil with lots of organic matter.
Watering: Water thoroughly after planting.
Deadheading: Not necessary but can encourage new blooms.
Sunlight: Grow best in morning sun with afternoon shade.
Varieties: PeeGee hydrangeas can grow in full sun.
Watering: Monitor and provide additional watering during the first and second years after planting, especially during droughts.
Fertilizing: Apply slow-release fertilizer 1 to 2 times a year. Follow the directions on the fertilizer label.